In September 2026, for my 57th birthday, I decided to travel to Churchill, Manitoba. My goal was to try to check off as many boxes as possible, maximizing for new experiences. Specifically, I wanted to:
- see polar bears
- see beluga whales
- see the Northern Lights
- take an overnight train ride
As it turns out, September in Churchill is the only month in which it is possible to do all these items, at the same time, in one trip. To be clear, I would consider my trip a success even if only one or two of the above happened. As it turned out, I saw many polar bears and I thoroughly enjoyed the 3-day/2-night Winnipeg-Churchill train ride. But unfortunately, the high winds prevented safe boating unto the Hudson Bay — so no beluga whales — and adverse weather caused cloud cover and poor visibility — so no Northern Lights.
However, it was such an incredible journey for me!
In Winnipeg, an unexpected highlight were the bison at FortWhyte. They were majestic, and I highly recommend taking the time to see them if you can.
The VIA Train Sleeper Class Plus ride from Winnipeg to Churchill was a good experience for me. At least for me, sleeping on the moving train was easy and relaxing. And having to go for three days with almost no cell or Internet was more therapeutic than stressful.
The entire town of Churchill was delightful. It is small; the friendly, local population is about 600 and there were only four public restaurants open during my week there. However, you’re not going there for the food. You’re going for the polar bears!
I saw many, many polar bears. This included an up-close experience with three polar bears (a mom and two yearlings) who got close enough that our tour guide had to urge us to get into the bus for safety, my first helicopter ride where I was able to see large packs of polar bears, and an amazing viewing of a tranquilized adult bear being air-lifted from the “polar bear jail“!
Also, a shout out to the hike to the SS Ithaka shipwreck. The hike was difficult, but it was worth it, and allowed me to experience a stunning, otherwordly landscape.
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